The Spirituality of Surfing

Surfers are truly unique individuals, they willingly swim into “beat-down” walls of water that could drown them in an instant. They rise above all the turbulence, take a moment to settle in after they’ve gotten past the abuse, then find their perfect wave, and paddle into it. Once they find the right timing, and feel themselves meshing with the power of the water they are immersed within, they use their incredible athletic ability (just the right mix of strength and balance) to push themselves up onto a tiny board they have no business on. Once aboard, they position themselves to glide across the front, or ride to the top of “their” wave, borrowed from Mother Nature for just a moment, to hydroplane across the top of the water. It is a beautiful site to see when a surfer becomes one with the wave they are riding upon, it is like watching a bird sailing on the wind. Continuous alterations in balance and muscle movement to use the power to propel them forward. No wonder afterwards, when the ride runs it’s course, they feel compelled to turn around, and paddle right back out into the abuse. It is for those moments of perfect freedom, when all else falls away, and there is nothing else left but them, the wave, the wind, and the power of the moment. They practice an athletic art-form, and become one with nature instantaneously. It is more than it’s parts, more than just swimming, paddling, riding on a board, it is truly spiritual. Or so I hear…I envy them.